Journey from St. Petersburg to… Lisbon. Part one
I have a close relative. Although life has carried us much away, we continue to be friends and families houses. Thanks to the internet and digital communication. He lives in Lithuania, but the, and the life, He traveled a lot around Europe and deals with a wide range of different people. Because often he talks about real life “in the civilized world” things sometimes unexpected for me. During one of the conversations “about the family and about the children” we had the idea to do something like travel writing. So to me there is only clarifying questions and a certain literary treatment.
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Lately, years, so five or six hundred, debate continues and where, properly, people live better – at “lapotnoy” Russia or “educated” Europe. And like the run of the century, changing the material supply means…
For example, in the time of Ivan the Terrible, they were stubby pieces of paper in half an A4, written fugitive “dissident” Prince Andrew Kurbsky and other returnees to the Russian service of the European “migrant workers”, and now it is a high-tech Internet, cryptographic quantum communication, social networks and neuro-linguistic programming.
but, despite the obscure words of the previous sentence, at 21 century, people in Russia and in Europe, people are frustratingly little knowledge of each other's lives. At first, as in the times of Ivan IV the topic extremely ideologized, And from all sides – how our, and European.
inadvertently tell, breakwater, have or have people live worse and… hammers in the scoreboard certainly will not get, odnako administration facebook “ban” may at times, and loyal subscribers with emotion negativity add – send the crowd of angry emoticons, proudly unsubscribe, but for a long time will poison your blog acid scathing commentary.
Secondly, for hundreds of years and have not managed to win a bad tradition, when about life in other countries, people talk on native village store never left (the first level of expertise) or, at best, there are somewhere as a tourist (expert level – the God).
If the first and not talk about anything, then with the second, too, talking as if not what. For what can tell a tourist about the real life of people in "Europe", rested for a week on the beach, Poglazov the Eiffel Tower and drinking beer with shank somewhere in Prague? agree, difficult to judge the people and country, when you live in a five-star hotel, and all around you smile with joy for your money.
And finally – Russia decided to compare with some mythical united Europe, and it's a very different. Languages, culture, story, laws may be radically different at a distance of not a hundred kilometers. That's about it and wanted to tell, without malice, joyful aspiration and… ideology.
And we will begin our journey to the Baltic. Still of Peter leave.
Baltic
In Russia, the Baltic states see some single entity, not sharing on Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. This is understandable, everything is so small. In Tallinn, breakfast, I sat in the car, Riga lunch, and four hours later had dinner in Vilnius. But this unity and ends. At the national language level nothing.
Furthermore there is a small mutual national contempt. In Estonia, there are well-established historical expression: stupid as the Latvian. And in Lithuania, the Latvian affectionately known horses' heads. Why so complicated – riddle. Between a Baltic people almost do not conflict, and historical grievances should be absent, and drat. All three countries are on their way of life, coordinating with each other only anti-Russian official agenda, but to write about this boring.
From a national point of view, it is worth noting one more amusing and, in general, a sad aspect. for almost 30 years of independence, the titular nations thoroughly forgotten Russian and did not learn English until the lost level of Russian language. As a result, there is a big problem to communicate with each other. In Tallinn, happened a few times faced with the staff, possessing only native dialect. One time we were almost hysterical not finished.
It was in a pizzeria in the old town. My wife and I ate and went to the bar to pay. I give the boy-waiter (years 25) fifty euros, and he does not take, mutters something in his own way. In Russian does not understand, in English too. Wife began to slightly panic, what he wants from us, and I spoke to him in Spanish. After that, the Estonian boy completely wilted and began to look at us once hunted. It turned out he was not putting, but can not speak…
As a consequence of this situation in the Baltic States have multiplied paid courses of Russian language. it helps, true, weakly.
Summarizing the national language subject it should be noted - in the Russian media topic of national contradictions is greatly exaggerated. If you watch Russian TV or read ðóíåò, it might get the wrong impression, that there almost is not a war… And it is not so, It is not so.
Somewhere in 2008, 2014 years some national friction were acute. Now it is in the past. In Estonia and Latvia from the beginning actually formed two parallel worlds - the titular nation and does not cover. They are there, and exist separately from each other. And in Lithuania, like it was never. Russophobia at the household level, certainly, present, but it is very unusual. That is, to me personally, my Lithuanian friends can simply be treated well, invites birthdays, tack, well, or kayak ride, but in general they are Russian bad.
Or, for example, you hire a guide, to have it professionally tell your guests from Russia and Belarus about the history of the city, and he was a benevolent smile to them for half an hour on Russian broadcasts about the horrors of the Soviet occupation. This has happened in Vilnius, and in Tallinn. In Vilnius it was a status event, Our guests from Russia and Belarus, and here is. Headmistress grabbed guide sleeve, He took the side and in Lithuanian, so guests do not understand, guide asked a specific question: "What are you carrying? The same guests from Russia!"The guide told: "Well, must, and generally my instruction!"And they like that gets very harmonious.
As for the Russian people, it is completely integrated into the local society and no revolutionary impulses does not feel. In Estonia, in Lithuania or Latvia Russian sufficiently mastered the titular language, resigned to the status of national minorities, and are mainly focused on addressing domestic and financial issues.
Children go to school. Who - in the title, who - in the formal Russian. I write - formally, because in the backpack of my eldest son odinadtsatiklassnika half of Lithuanian textbooks. All test papers - only in Lithuanian, exams too. If, or rather when, All schools will be formally Russian, population is quietly swallow. Is that the kind of pobuhtit. Just like everywhere, all need to solve the mortgage questions, loans and midlife crisis.
After all, since the untimely demise of the USSR passed already 27 very long. A huge number of people in the new reality lived most of adult life. Discrimination on linguistic grounds, of course, there is, but for such a period it is much poistorlas, and if you are not applying for high public office, all other roads are open to you. And it all depends on your personal abilities.
And from the point of view of capitalism, there is absolutely no difference, what color the cat will catch mice. Baltic employers have long ceased to pay attention to the focus and the employee's name, the main thing that would bring profit.
And the new generation does not see any problems in the need to use the title of language in all spheres. It is this increased, mastered the language, but to be honest – it is actually not so difficult.
Furthermore, when you start a good understanding of the Estonian, Latvian or Lithuanian, then suddenly you realize the futility of these “great” languages. Because there is nothing for them, continuous vacuum. Scientific literature – or English or Russian. Humor – only Russian, translated and slightly adapted to the local way. Movie, Belletristik – all foreign. National Internet – heels and all resources. When you specify this unfortunate fact the titular population, it argues its position in monosyllables and succinctly - "It is not true! It is in you great-Russian chauvinism plays!».
Well, okay – with him were born, with him, and dead men. Especially, that the fight against the Russian for, so to speak, "Native MOV" led to a total angloizatsii (I do not know whether there is such a term) many spheres of life. Euroallied laws and directives – in English, dialogue with European partners, as well as with the heads had been sent out - also in the language of Shakespeare is, internal communications in many local companies - partially or completely in English, otherwise of foreign bosses do not read, all kinds of technical seminars - in the language of nebulous Albina. In short - you do not like Russian, learn English.
The Russian media is constantly discussed topic extinct Baltic. This is both true, and true. That is, for the time of independence to leave here in the amount of nearly half a million people. But the republics this trouble has been very unevenly.
Estonia suffered the least, I lost about 200 thousand, and that the main – last year went to the Migration zero balance. Latvia and Lithuania suffered the most, and yet continue to lose population. Lithuania general already lost almost a million.
Probably, such migration trends related to the level of Soviet industrialization. In Estonia, it was less likely, Latvia, Lithuania, much more. She gently bent, not shifting realities euroallied, respectively released people, and they need to do something with. Because there is a perception in the Baltic States, что с окончанием процесса деиндустриализации (тут его называют адаптацией и конвергенцией) миграционные процессы стабилизируются, как в Эстонии.
В жизни прибалтийская депопуляция выглядит любопытно. Едешь из Риги в Таллин, а вокруг, как в Сибири, ни огонька – только заброшенные домишки пустыми окнами грустно в небо смотрят. A, for example, в Литве миграция выражается в массовом исчезновении мужчин в провинциальных городках и посёлках. В прошлом году пришлось поучаствовать на собрании родственников на день всех святых. В зале на трёх мужчин пришлось двенадцать женщин. Well, просто бабье царство. А где мужья? А они все на заработках в Норвегии, Denmark, Sweden.
И хоть женщины и тоскуют по любимым, однако относятся к ситуации спокойно. Мужья присылают домой по тысяче-полторы евро в месяц, что позволяет очень достойно существовать, платить ипотеку, покупать машины и пару раз в год кататься в заграничный отпуск.
And indeed, scary to think, что было бы без возможности массового оттока трудовых ресурсов в Европу. А так всё очень прилично и достойно. Что будет лет через десять-двадцать – никто не думает, but more on that later.
Согласно официальной экономической статистике среди прибалтийских республик лидером считается Эстония, а Литва в замыкающих, Латвия посерёдке. At least, в Литве Эстонию как пример поминают и к месту и не к месту, а вот в Эстонии почему-то в качестве маяка склоняют Польшу. Если судить по сухим цифрам зарплат, that is, certainly, So – в Эстонии они самые большие, номинально. Только вот сами эстонцы такому лидерству как-то не сильно рады.
В вопросе доходов очень любопытно посмотреть на таллинские кафе и рестораны, they, что в центре города, а также на рождественскую ярмарку. Любопытно в том плане, что эстонец там очень редкий гость, одни финны, да россияне. For example, в той же Литве, которая вроде бы в отстающих, местные – главные клиенты кафе и всевозможных праздничных ярмарок.
В Прибалтике доходы номинально как бы растут, однако их рост мгновенно съедается растущей стоимостью жизни. Вот в конце прошлого года в Литве подняли пенсии почти на 30 euro, и одновременно подняли цену за газ и электричество на 15-20%. В результате пенсионеры ничего не выиграли.
Зарплаты тоже вроде вверх ползут, of course, не на декларируемые властями цифры, но всё-таки. Однако после перехода в еврозону подорожание всего и вся в низовом ценовом сегменте произошло в разы. Вроде катушки ниток, которая в литах стоила один лит, а в евро стала стоить один евро. Course 3.45 лита – 1 euro. Тарелка простого супа в кафешке стоила 3 лита, Now 3 euro. И так везде. And, чем выше средняя зарплата, тем выше прыгнули цены.
В результате парадокс – в Литве люди финансово чувствуют себя лучше, чем в Латвии или Эстонии, при номинально меньшей зарплате. Простые люди евро массово недовольны, но кого волнует их мнение?
Many, probably, интересует главный вопрос – а довольны ли местные русские, и нерусские новыми социально-экономическими реалиями? Простого ответа нет, но можно смело сказать – активного протеста настоящее не вызывает. Как уже писал выше, национальный аспект сглажен и потерял свою актуальность. they, кто был принципиально возмущён национальной дискриминацией, попросту уехали. Благо границы открыты как для граждан, так и неграждан.
Оставшиеся смирились и интегрировались. Максимальный возможный уровень протеста – возложение цветов на 9 мая и георгиевская ленточка на машинке. All, дальше полная лояльность или вернее равнодушие и очень простое решение – если в этой стране мы лишние, то мы просто уедем. Причём такой точки зрения придерживаются как русские, так и титульные, разве что процент уехавших среди русского населения примерно в два раза выше.
Надо быть объективным – жизнь в Прибалтике более-менее спокойна и в материальном плане лучше, than in Soviet times. On the road full of cars, the shops, complete absence of deficit, Turkey, Egypt… When the median average salary 500-700 euro (for two 1000-1400) family of three can lay up 200 евро и даже позволить себе скромный отпуск на Балтийском море, благо оно рядом, Well, или в Болгарии, там весьма бюджетно. Yes, пенсионерам жить тяжело. But, голода среди них или, for example, массовых неплатежей за коммунальные услуги нет. Мои родители получают на двоих 660 евро пенсии, отдают 150 за коммунальные услуги, и оставшихся средств им вполне хватает на проживание.
Of course, перспективы Прибалтики очень туманны. Относительное благополучие держится на европейских дотациях и возможности стравливать пар социального недовольства в виде свободного экспорта ненужных людей. Migrants are very serious support remittances decent standard of living in the province. clear, that sooner or later it will end - subsidies, as well as remittances from Europe, stop. Налоги и цены будут значительно увеличены – государство же содержать всё равно надо. Пенсионный возраст будет увеличен, хотя он и сейчас уже 65 лет для мужчин и женщин. In the plans – 67…
But all this will happen, and now everything is more or less safely. And this – till, – Now the imperative is a major determinant of attitude of the absolute majority of the population. That's particularly good right now, okay, and the future, Well, who knows, how it got there everything goes.
AND, it seems, Baltic States and we drove, then we Poland.
Alexander Zapolskis
